A minty-green heart note with a spicy, aromatic edge.
Shiso is a heart note in perfumery, prized for its green, minty, and subtly spicy character. Its defining aroma comes from perillaldehyde, present at 40–55% in the essential oil, and is typically used at concentrations below 5%.
Shiso (Perilla frutescens), a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae), is botanically distinct for its serrated leaves and aromatic profile. What does shiso smell like? The shiso scent profile is defined by a green, minty, and slightly spicy aroma, with a unique twist that bridges basil, mint, and cinnamon families. The dominant molecule, perillaldehyde (C10H14O), imparts a citrusy-minty edge, while supporting compounds like limonene and linalool contribute to its fresh, herbal complexity. Green shiso (aojiso) is richer in perillaldehyde, whereas red shiso (akajiso) contains more anthocyanins and a faintly cinnamate character. This molecular diversity gives shiso its signature crispness and aromatic vibrancy. In perfumery, shiso is classified as a heart note, typically used at concentrations below 5%. Its volatility is moderate, allowing it to persist through the fragrance’s evolution without overwhelming the composition. Shiso in perfumery interacts with skin chemistry in nuanced ways: on acidic skin, its minty facets are accentuated, while alkaline skin can amplify the herbal-spicy undertones. The note’s ability to balance robust ingredients and introduce an uplifting, botanical freshness makes it a favored choice in both contemporary and traditional scent architectures. Notable fragrances that exemplify shiso’s use include Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi (2014, perfumer Calice Becker), where shiso bridges citrus and herbal notes, and Marie Jeanne Rose Shiso (2024), which pairs shiso’s green vibrancy with rose and magnolia for a modern floral-green composition. Sisley L’Eau Rêvée d’Hubert (2023, Alexis Dadier) showcases shiso’s spicy-green signature alongside mint and buchu, while Aftelier Shiso (2011, Mandy Aftel) explores its complexity with clove, green pepper, and sandalwood. These examples highlight shiso in perfumery as a note of innovation and aromatic distinction.
Shiso’s scent character is shaped by the terroir of East Asia—humid summers, volcanic soils, and regional chemotypes yield subtle aromatic differences.
Shiso is derived from Perilla frutescens, a herbaceous plant native to East Asia. The primary producing countries are Japan, Korea, and China, where shiso is cultivated for both culinary and aromatic applications. In Japan, regions like Aizu (Fukushima Prefecture) are known for high-quality shiso, with annual production estimated at several thousand metric tons, though only a small fraction is destined for essential oil extraction. Korea’s broader-leaf perilla (kkaennip) is also used, with a grassier, anise-like profile. Extraction of shiso essential oil is performed via steam distillation of fresh leaves. The process operates at temperatures below 100°C to preserve volatile compounds, yielding a pale yellow oil with 0.3–0.5% extraction yield from fresh biomass. The perillaldehyde chemotype dominates in Japanese cultivars, with concentrations of 40–55% in the oil. Other chemotypes may be richer in perilla ketone, citral, or limonene, affecting the olfactory outcome. The CAS number for shiso essential oil is 90082-61-4. Solvent extraction and CO₂ extraction are less common but can be used for absolute production, resulting in a more complete aromatic profile. Natural shiso absolute is costly, ranging from $3,000–6,000/kg due to low yields and labor-intensive harvesting. Synthetic analogues, such as perillaldehyde and safranal, are produced at $50–200/kg, offering greater consistency and affordability. Sustainability considerations focus on small-scale, rotational agriculture in Japan and Korea, minimizing soil depletion and pesticide use. Shiso cultivation is generally regarded as low-impact, and there are no IFRA restrictions on its use in perfumery.
Aizu, Fukushima Prefecture, is renowned for green shiso with high perillaldehyde content. Volcanic soils and humid summers yield a crisp, minty aroma. Japan supplies the majority of shiso essential oil for perfumery, though total volumes are small (<5 metric tons/year).
Gyeongsangbuk-do produces broadleaf perilla (kkaennip) with a grassier, anise-like profile. Korean shiso is used more for culinary purposes, but some essential oil is exported for niche perfumery. Annual production is estimated at several hundred tons, with essential oil as a byproduct.
Sichuan and Yunnan regions cultivate shiso with a slightly spicier, more camphoraceous aroma due to higher perilla ketone content. China’s shiso is primarily for culinary use, but limited essential oil is produced for export.
Natural shiso oil is a complex mixture dominated by perillaldehyde (CAS 2111-75-3), with supporting molecules such as limonene (CAS 138-86-3) and linalool (CAS 78-70-6). The natural extract offers a nuanced, evolving scent profile with moderate longevity and a distinctive green-spicy character. However, batch-to-batch variability is high due to climate, soil, and harvest timing. Synthetic shiso notes are typically constructed using perillaldehyde (nature-identical), safranal (CAS 116-26-7) for spicy warmth, and isopulegol (CAS 89-79-2) for minty freshness. These aroma chemicals provide greater stability, uniformity, and cost efficiency, with prices ranging from $50–200/kg. Synthetic shiso accords are favored in large-scale production and for consistent performance in various bases (EDP, EDT, oil). Notable fragrances using synthetic shiso or analogues include Versace Pour Femme Dylan Blue (2017) and Acqua di Parma Colonia C.L.U.B. (2022). From a sustainability perspective, synthetics reduce pressure on agricultural land and ensure traceability. The HumanSafe™ platform at CA Perfume verifies ingredient sourcing and allergen transparency, supporting both natural and synthetic options. No IFRA restrictions apply to shiso or its key synthetics, and both forms are considered safe at typical usage levels.
Shiso has become a signature note in modern green, aromatic, and East Asian-inspired fragrances. In Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi (2014, Calice Becker), shiso acts as a bridge between citrus and herbal notes, lending a crisp, green freshness to the Mediterranean composition. Marie Jeanne Rose Shiso (2024) pairs shiso’s green vibrancy with rose and magnolia, creating a contemporary floral-green scent. Sisley L’Eau Rêvée d’Hubert (2023, Alexis Dadier) uses shiso alongside mint and buchu for a spicy-aromatic opening, while Les Liquides Imaginaires L’Ile Pourpre (2016, Sonia Constant) explores shiso as a dominant note in a fruity-herbal context. Aftelier Shiso (2011, Mandy Aftel) is a natural perfume that foregrounds shiso with clove, green pepper, and sandalwood, demonstrating its complexity in artisanal perfumery. These fragrances illustrate shiso’s versatility as a dominant note, bridge, or accent, often paired with citrus, rose, mint, and woody notes. CA Perfume’s collection draws inspiration from this lineage, offering both classic and contemporary interpretations of the shiso note.
A shiso accord is constructed by blending shiso (20–25%), mint (20–25%), rose (25–30%), and sandalwood (25–30%). Shiso provides the green, spicy foundation via perillaldehyde. Mint introduces menthol and isopulegol for a cooling effect. Rose, rich in damascenone, bridges the green and floral facets, while sandalwood’s santalol molecules offer a creamy, woody base that stabilizes the accord’s volatility.
Shiso supplies the core green, minty, and spicy character, driven by perillaldehyde and limonene, forming the accord’s aromatic backbone.
Mint (menthol, isopulegol) amplifies shiso’s freshness and extends the cooling sensation, enhancing top note diffusion.
Rose (damascenone, geraniol) bridges shiso’s green facets with floral complexity, providing molecular continuity and softening sharpness.
Sandalwood (santalol) anchors the accord, imparting creamy, woody depth and moderating the volatility of green and minty notes.
Shiso’s olfactory evolution begins with a burst of green-minty freshness, transitions to herbal-spicy heart, and settles into a subtle woody drydown. High-volatility monoterpenes evaporate first, while heavier sesquiterpenes and aldehydes persist.
The initial impression is a sharp, green, minty freshness dominated by perillaldehyde and limonene. These high-volatility molecules evaporate rapidly, creating a crisp, invigorating opening that is immediately recognizable as shiso.
As the top notes dissipate, shiso’s herbal and slightly spicy character emerges, supported by linalool and beta-caryophyllene. The heart is complex, balancing mint, basil, and cinnamon facets, with a faintly anise-camphor undertone.
The drydown reveals a subtle woody and earthy base, where sandalwood and patchouli (if present) interact with residual shiso aldehydes. The green quality lingers, but is softened by creamy, musky undertones.
Shiso’s journey in perfumery spans centuries, from traditional Japanese incense to modern niche fragrances.
Shiso leaves were used in Japanese incense (kōdō), valued for their fresh, herbal aroma and believed to purify the air during tea ceremonies and rituals.
Japanese producers began steam distilling shiso leaves for essential oil, initially for flavoring and later for perfumery. Early analyses identified perillaldehyde as the dominant compound.
Mandy Aftel released Shiso, one of the first Western natural perfumes to foreground shiso as a dominant note, blending it with clove and sandalwood.
Calice Becker incorporated shiso as a bridge note in Mandarino di Amalfi, bringing the green-minty signature to a global audience.
Marie Jeanne Rose Shiso (2024) and Sisley L’Eau Rêvée d’Hubert (2023) highlight shiso’s versatility in floral-green and spicy-aromatic compositions, cementing its place in modern perfumery.
Understanding how to layer shiso is key to unlocking its full aromatic potential. Layering shiso with complementary notes leverages molecular compatibility—shared terpenes and aldehydes create seamless transitions, while contrasting notes provide olfactory balance.
Layer shiso with citrus notes (e.g., yuzu, bergamot) to amplify its green-minty profile. Both share high levels of limonene, which increases volatility and creates a vibrant, uplifting effect. Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi demonstrates this synergy.
Pair shiso with woody notes like sandalwood or cedar. Santalol and cedrol molecules provide a creamy, grounding base that moderates shiso’s volatility, resulting in a longer-lasting, more complex scent. Aftelier Shiso and Les Liquides Imaginaires L’Ile Pourpre illustrate this approach.
Combine shiso with rose or magnolia for a green-floral interplay. Damascenone in rose bridges shiso’s herbal facets, while magnolia’s linalool softens the composition. Marie Jeanne Rose Shiso exemplifies this molecular pairing.
In cooler months, shiso’s herbal-spicy core becomes more prominent as lower temperatures suppress volatility. Apply to pulse points under clothing to maximize longevity. Pair with woody or amber notes for added warmth.
Spring’s moderate temperatures allow shiso’s green and minty facets to shine. Layer with florals or light citrus for a fresh, uplifting effect. Apply to exposed skin for optimal diffusion.
Heat increases shiso’s volatility, intensifying its minty freshness and projection. Use lighter applications and pair with citrus or aquatic notes for a cooling, invigorating scent cloud.
Shiso’s versatility suits all seasons. Adjust application and layering partners to emphasize freshness in summer or herbal depth in winter. Always apply to well-moisturized skin for best results.
Strategic application enhances shiso’s aromatic evolution and longevity.
The neck’s warmth accelerates shiso’s top note diffusion, allowing the green-minty burst to project quickly. Ideal for immediate freshness.
This area maintains moderate heat and moisture, extending the herbal-spicy heart of shiso and providing a subtle sillage trail.
Pulse points on the wrists amplify shiso’s volatility, showcasing its evolving green and spicy facets with each movement.
Spraying shiso-infused fragrance on hair allows for slow, continuous release of its minty and herbal molecules, enhancing longevity.
Layer shiso with a fixative base (e.g., sandalwood oil) on skin before application to anchor its volatile top notes and extend wear.
These Shiso-based fragrances scored highest on the MEI™ Mood Architecture Framework — measuring how a scent may influence your emotional state.
These Shiso-based fragrances have the highest product-level HumanSafe™ scores in this ingredient collection.
Green shiso is dominated by perillaldehyde (a monoterpene aldehyde), while red shiso contains more anthocyanins and has a more complex, slightly cinnamate character.
Shiso in perfume serves as an innovative ingredient that adds a refreshing, aromatic quality, enhancing both contemporary and traditional scent compositions.
Shiso’s green, herbal profile pairs well with a range of complementary ingredients in perfumery.
Frequently asked questions about shiso in perfumery.
Shiso in perfume is characterized by a green, minty, and slightly spicy scent profile. The dominant aroma molecule, perillaldehyde, imparts a citrusy-minty freshness, while supporting terpenes like limonene and linalool add herbal and floral nuances. The result is a crisp, aromatic note that bridges mint, basil, and cinnamon, with a subtle camphoraceous undertone. Notable fragrances such as Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi and Marie Jeanne Rose Shiso highlight shiso’s unique olfactory signature.
Shiso is typically classified as a heart note in perfumery. Its volatility is moderate, allowing it to persist beyond the initial top notes but not as long as base notes like sandalwood or patchouli. In some compositions, shiso can also appear as a top note, especially when paired with citrus or mint, but its primary role is to provide aromatic complexity in the heart of the fragrance.
Shiso’s distinctive green-minty-spicy profile offers a unique alternative to more common herbal notes. Its molecular complexity, driven by perillaldehyde and supporting terpenes, allows perfumers to create innovative, nature-inspired compositions. Shiso is especially valued in niche perfumery for its ability to bridge citrus, floral, and woody notes, adding freshness and sophistication to both modern and traditional scents.
Shiso fragrance uses often include pairing with mint, basil, citrus (especially yuzu and bergamot), rose, and sandalwood. These combinations leverage molecular compatibility—shared terpenes and aldehydes create seamless transitions, while contrasting notes provide olfactory balance. For example, shiso and rose both contain damascenone, which bridges green and floral facets.
Yes, shiso’s high volatility and green-minty freshness make it particularly well-suited for summer and hot weather. Heat amplifies its top notes, enhancing projection and creating an invigorating, cooling effect. In cooler weather, shiso’s herbal-spicy heart becomes more pronounced, making it versatile year-round.
Shiso fragrances generally last 5–7 hours, depending on concentration and skin chemistry. The top notes dissipate quickly, but the herbal-spicy heart and woody base can linger for several hours, especially in Eau de Parfum or oil-based formats.
Yes, shiso is highly versatile for layering. It pairs well with citrus for freshness, woods for depth, and florals for contrast. Layering shiso with complementary notes leverages molecular compatibility, enhancing both projection and complexity. Notable examples include pairing with rose (Marie Jeanne Rose Shiso) or sandalwood (Aftelier Shiso).
For those new to shiso, Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi and Marie Jeanne Rose Shiso are excellent entry points. Both showcase shiso’s green-minty character in accessible, well-balanced compositions. Sisley L’Eau Rêvée d’Hubert offers a more aromatic, spicy interpretation.
Consider your preferred scent profile—if you enjoy green, minty, and herbal notes, look for fragrances where shiso is a dominant or bridge note. Review the scent pyramid and pairing notes to find a composition that matches your taste. CA Perfume’s collection includes both classic and contemporary shiso interpretations.
Shiso is primarily green, minty, and spicy, with only faint sweetness from supporting terpenes. The spicy aspect comes from perillaldehyde and beta-caryophyllene, while any sweetness is subtle and usually balanced by herbal and woody notes. In some compositions, shiso can take on a slightly fruity or floral nuance, depending on the pairing.
Discover shiso’s aromatic versatility in our curated collection—ranging from green-minty classics to modern floral-green blends.
Shop all shiso fragrances at CA Perfume →Shiso is derived from Perilla frutescens, a herbaceous plant native to East Asia. The primary producing countries are Japan, Korea, and China, where shiso is cultivated for both culinary and aromatic applications. In Japan, regions like Aizu (Fukushima Prefecture) are known for high-quality shiso, with annual production estimated at several thousand metric tons, though only a small fraction is destined for essential oil extraction. Korea’s broader-leaf perilla (kkaennip) is also used, with a grassier, anise-like profile. Extraction of shiso essential oil is performed via steam distillation of fresh leaves. The process operates at temperatures below 100°C to preserve volatile compounds, yielding a pale yellow oil with 0.3–0.5% extraction yield from fresh biomass. The perillaldehyde chemotype dominates in Japanese cultivars, with concentrations of 40–55% in the oil. Other chemotypes may be richer in perilla ketone, citral, or limonene, affecting the olfactory outcome. The CAS number for shiso essential oil is 90082-61-4. Solvent extraction and CO₂ extraction are less common but can be used for absolute production, resulting in a more complete aromatic profile. Natural shiso absolute is costly, ranging from $3,000–6,000/kg due to low yields and labor-intensive harvesting. Synthetic analogues, such as perillaldehyde and safranal, are produced at $50–200/kg, offering greater consistency and affordability. Sustainability considerations focus on small-scale, rotational agriculture in Japan and Korea, minimizing soil depletion and pesticide use. Shiso cultivation is generally regarded as low-impact, and there are no IFRA restrictions on its use in perfumery.
Shiso has become a signature note in modern green, aromatic, and East Asian-inspired fragrances. In Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi (2014, Calice Becker), shiso acts as a bridge between citrus and herbal notes, lending a crisp, green freshness to the Mediterranean composition. Marie Jeanne Rose Shiso (2024) pairs shiso’s green vibrancy with rose and magnolia, creating a contemporary floral-green scent. Sisley L’Eau Rêvée d’Hubert (2023, Alexis Dadier) uses shiso alongside mint and buchu for a spicy-aromatic opening, while Les Liquides Imaginaires L’Ile Pourpre (2016, Sonia Constant) explores shiso as a dominant note in a fruity-herbal context. Aftelier Shiso (2011, Mandy Aftel) is a natural perfume that foregrounds shiso with clove, green pepper, and sandalwood, demonstrating its complexity in artisanal perfumery. These fragrances illustrate shiso’s versatility as a dominant note, bridge, or accent, often paired with citrus, rose, mint, and woody notes. CA Perfume’s collection draws inspiration from this lineage, offering both classic and contemporary interpretations of the shiso note.
Natural shiso oil is a complex mixture dominated by perillaldehyde (CAS 2111-75-3), with supporting molecules such as limonene (CAS 138-86-3) and linalool (CAS 78-70-6). The natural extract offers a nuanced, evolving scent profile with moderate longevity and a distinctive green-spicy character. However, batch-to-batch variability is high due to climate, soil, and harvest timing. Synthetic shiso notes are typically constructed using perillaldehyde (nature-identical), safranal (CAS 116-26-7) for spicy warmth, and isopulegol (CAS 89-79-2) for minty freshness. These aroma chemicals provide greater stability, uniformity, and cost efficiency, with prices ranging from $50–200/kg. Synthetic shiso accords are favored in large-scale production and for consistent performance in various bases (EDP, EDT, oil). Notable fragrances using synthetic shiso or analogues include Versace Pour Femme Dylan Blue (2017) and Acqua di Parma Colonia C.L.U.B. (2022). From a sustainability perspective, synthetics reduce pressure on agricultural land and ensure traceability. The HumanSafe™ platform at CA Perfume verifies ingredient sourcing and allergen transparency, supporting both natural and synthetic options. No IFRA restrictions apply to shiso or its key synthetics, and both forms are considered safe at typical usage levels.
