Cashmere wood, also known as cashmeran (chemical name: 1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-1,3,5-cyclohexanetrione, CAS 33704-61-9), is a synthetic aroma chemical developed by IFF in 1968. Its scent profile is multifaceted: warm, musky, woody, and subtly spicy, with creamy, powdery nuances. The molecule’s structure allows it to evoke the tactile sensation of cashmere fabric—soft, slightly salty, and reminiscent of sun-warmed skin. The scent also carries hints of dried fruit, coniferous wood, and a mineral, almost paper-like undertone. This complexity is due to its polycyclic structure, which bridges musky and woody odorants, and its volatility is moderate, making it suitable for both heart and base note roles.
In perfumery, cashmere wood is typically classified as a middle-to-base note. It is valued for its ability to provide warmth, texture, and a plush, skin-like quality to compositions. Usage concentrations rarely exceed 2% due to its potency and cost, but even at 0.5–1%, it imparts a lasting, enveloping character. Cashmere wood interacts with skin chemistry by amplifying musky and mineral facets on warmer, more alkaline skin, while remaining creamy and soft on cooler, acidic skin. Its molecular weight and moderate volatility mean it lingers on skin, providing a cocooning effect that enhances longevity and sillage.
Notable fragrances that exemplify cashmere wood in perfumery include Lalique Encre Noire (2006, perfumer Nathalie Lorson), where it forms the mineral, woody backbone, and Mugler Alien Goddess Intense (2022), where it provides a creamy, solar base. In Phlur Vanilla Skin (2023), cashmere wood is used as a heart note to create a velvety, musky-amber effect. These examples highlight its versatility across woody, floral, and gourmand genres, cementing its status as a defining note in contemporary fragrance design.