Where Licorice Comes From — Origin & Extraction
Licorice is derived from the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a leguminous plant native to southern Europe and western Asia. Major producing countries include Turkey, Iran, China, Spain, and Italy. Turkey and Iran are leading exporters, with global licorice root production exceeding 100,000 metric tons annually, though only a small fraction is used in perfumery.
Natural licorice extract is obtained via CO2 extraction or solvent extraction (ethanol or methanol) of dried roots, yielding a dark, viscous absolute rich in anethole and glycyrrhizin. Steam distillation is rarely used, as it produces minimal essential oil and loses much of the root’s complexity. The CO2 extract preserves the full spectrum of sweet, anisic, and woody-bitter notes. However, natural licorice extract is water-soluble and not readily compatible with alcohol-based perfumery, limiting its direct use.
Due to these constraints, most licorice notes in fragrance are reconstructed using star anise essential oil (Illicium verum), synthetic anethole, and supporting aroma chemicals such as methylcyclopentenolone (CAS 80-71-7) and coumarin (CAS 91-64-5). The cost of natural licorice absolute can reach $1,000–2,000/kg, while synthetic anethole is available for $30–50/kg, making the latter the industry standard. Sustainability concerns include overharvesting of wild licorice populations and the environmental impact of solvent extraction. Synthetic alternatives reduce pressure on natural resources and offer greater batch-to-batch consistency.
Famous Fragrances That Define Licorice in Perfumery
Licorice has played a pivotal role in several influential fragrances, often as a bridge between gourmand, floral, and spicy notes. Lolita Lempicka (1997, Annick Menardo) is perhaps the most iconic licorice fragrance, combining the note with violet, cherry, and heliotrope to create a whimsical, powdery effect. Dior Sauvage Elixir (2021, François Demachy) uses licorice as a base note, lending a dark, spicy depth to its aromatic fougère structure. Amouroud Licorice Woods (2016, John Mastracola) showcases licorice as a middle note, entwined with rich woods and amber for a sophisticated, enduring aroma. Penhaligon's Legacy of Petra (2022, Natalie Gracia-Cetto) features licorice in the heart, paired with spices and resins to evoke an exotic, smoky sweetness. 1000 Flowers Reglisse Noire (2007, Jessica Buchanan) is a niche example, opening with black pepper and evolving into a classic licorice accord with patchouli and vanilla in the drydown.
These fragrances demonstrate the versatility of licorice—whether as a dominant note, a supporting accent, or a bridge between contrasting elements. CA Perfume’s collection draws inspiration from this lineage, offering licorice-centered compositions that explore both its sweet and dark facets.
Natural vs Synthetic Licorice in Perfumery
Natural licorice extract, obtained from Glycyrrhiza glabra roots, is prized for its complexity—combining anethole, glycyrrhizin, estragole, and woody terpenes. However, its use in perfumery is limited by poor solubility in alcohol and inconsistent supply. The main synthetic molecule used to recreate the licorice note is anethole (CAS 104-46-1), which provides the sweet, anisic character. Other key aroma chemicals include methylcyclopentenolone (CAS 80-71-7), which imparts a caramellic, maple-like nuance, and coumarin (CAS 91-64-5), which adds creamy, almond-like warmth.
Synthetic licorice accords offer superior stability, longevity, and batch consistency compared to natural extracts. They are also significantly less expensive—anethole costs $30–50/kg, while natural licorice absolute can exceed $1,000/kg. Most modern fragrances, including Dior Sauvage Elixir and Lolita Lempicka, rely on synthetic or reconstructed licorice notes for performance and sustainability reasons.
From a supply chain perspective, synthetics reduce overharvesting and ensure a steady, traceable source. The HumanSafe™ platform at CA Perfume verifies the origin and safety of all licorice-related materials, prioritizing transparency and minimizing allergen risk. While natural licorice extract is IFRA-approved with no major restrictions, synthetic anethole and related molecules are preferred for their purity and environmental profile.
