Where Clearwood Comes From — Origin & Extraction
Clearwood is a proprietary biotechnological ingredient developed by Firmenich and introduced to the fragrance industry in 2014. Unlike traditional woody notes extracted from plant biomass, Clearwood is produced via white biotechnology: the fermentation of renewable sugar feedstocks (primarily sugarcane) using engineered yeast strains. The process selectively converts these sugars into (-)-patchoulol and related sesquiterpenes, while minimizing the formation of norpatchoulenol, pogostol, and other earthy-smelling components. The resulting mixture is then purified by distillation to yield a pale yellow to amber liquid with a high concentration of patchoulol.
The primary production sites for Clearwood are in Switzerland (Firmenich headquarters), France, and the United States, reflecting the global reach of Firmenich’s manufacturing network. Production volumes are proprietary, but Clearwood is now widely available for both fine fragrance and functional applications. The cost of Clearwood is significantly lower than high-grade natural patchouli oil, with prices typically ranging from $80–$150 per kilogram, compared to $300–$600/kg for patchouli essential oil of comparable olfactory quality. The use of sugarcane as a feedstock and fermentation-based synthesis reduces land use, water consumption, and environmental impact relative to traditional patchouli cultivation, which is concentrated in Indonesia and subject to agricultural volatility.
Clearwood’s dual CAS numbers (84238-39-1 for EU/China/Taiwan, 1450625-49-6 for US/CA/KR/AU/PH) reflect its regulatory status as a proprietary mixture rather than a single molecule. The ingredient is IFRA-approved for use at up to 100% in finished products, with no known safety restrictions. Its sustainable production and batch-to-batch consistency have made it a model for next-generation fragrance materials.
Famous Fragrances That Define Clearwood in Perfumery
Clearwood has become a signature ingredient in modern perfumery, particularly in compositions seeking a clean, transparent woody base without the earthy heaviness of natural patchouli. Parfums de Marly Percival (2018, perfumer Hamid Merati-Kashani) uses Clearwood as a dominant note, providing a luminous, musky-woody foundation that supports citrus, lavender, and ambroxan. Versace Pour Femme Dylan Turquoise (2020, Sophie Labbé) employs Clearwood as a bridge note, linking bright citrus and florals to a soft, woody-musk base. Essential Parfums Patchouli Mania (2018, Nathalie Gracia-Cetto) demonstrates Clearwood’s ability to evoke patchouli’s depth without its characteristic dirtiness, functioning as a dominant note paired with cocoa and sandalwood.
Penhaligon’s The Dandy (2021, Fabrice Pellegrin) uses Clearwood as an accent, adding modern woody clarity to a composition built on iris, vetiver, and musks. Bvlgari Man Glacial Essence (2020, Alberto Morillas) leverages Clearwood as a supporting note, enhancing the icy freshness of juniper and sandalwood with a persistent, clean woody-amber base. These fragrances illustrate Clearwood’s versatility across gender, genre, and olfactory intent. CA Perfume’s collection draws inspiration from this lineage, offering contemporary woody-musk compositions that highlight Clearwood’s transparent warmth.
Natural vs Synthetic Clearwood in Perfumery
Clearwood is a biotechnologically derived ingredient, not a direct natural extract. Its primary molecular component, (-)-patchoulol (CAS 522-44-1), is also found in natural patchouli oil, but Clearwood is selectively enriched in this alcohol while minimizing norpatchoulenol, pogostol, and other minor sesquiterpenes. Other synthetic woody-amber molecules often used in similar contexts include Iso E Super (CAS 54464-57-2), Ambroxan (CAS 6790-58-5), and Cashmeran (CAS 33704-61-9). Compared to natural patchouli, Clearwood offers a cleaner, less earthy scent profile, greater stability, and no batch-to-batch olfactory variation.
Performance-wise, Clearwood delivers medium to high odor strength, with longevity exceeding 7 days on a smelling strip and excellent fixative properties in both fine fragrance and personal care. Its molecular simplicity ensures minimal color and excellent solubility, making it suitable for transparent, minimalist compositions. The cost advantage is substantial: Clearwood is typically $80–$150/kg, while natural patchouli oil ranges from $300–$600/kg and can be subject to supply chain volatility.
Famous fragrances using Clearwood include Parfums de Marly Percival, Bvlgari Man Glacial Essence, and Essential Parfums Patchouli Mania, all of which leverage its clean woody-musk character. From a sustainability perspective, Clearwood’s fermentation-based production reduces agricultural land use and environmental impact. CA Perfume’s HumanSafe™ platform verifies the ingredient’s traceability, allergen transparency, and batch consistency, supporting responsible sourcing and consumer confidence.
